Kao Soi (Chiang Mai Noodles With Curry Sauce)

In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, warm the coconut cream over medium heat until it boils gently. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle boil and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. The coconut cream will become fragrant as it thickens. When you see tiny pools of oil glistening on the surface, add the curry paste and turmeric and stir to dissolve the paste into the coconut cream. Continue cooking for 1 to 2 minutes, until the curry paste has a pleasing aroma. Add the chicken and stir-fry to coat it evenly with the paste. Cook for about 2 minutes Increase the heat and add the coconut milk, fish sauce, both soy sauces, and salt;stir well. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle, active boil and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, stir in the lime juice. Taste and adjust seasoning to your liking. In a small skillet over low heat, warm the oil. Add the ground chili and fry for 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the chile and oil to a small saucer. Place the saucer on a small serving platter along with the pickled cabbage, shallot, and lime in separate piles. To serve, place a handful of cooked noodles in each large individual serving bowl. Ladle a serving of chicken and curry sauce into each bowl, add a sprinkling of green onion, and serve at once along with the garnishes. Krueng Gaeng Peht (Red Curry Paste) 1/2 cup small dried red chilies 10 whole peppercorns 1 tbs whole coriander seeds 1 tsp whole cumin seed 4 stalks fresh lemongrass 1 tbs coarsely chopped fresh cilantro root or leaves and stems 1 tbs finely chopped, peeled fresh galanga and fresh ginger 1 tsp minced wild or domestic lime peel 2 tbs coarsely chopped garlic 1/4 cup coarsely chopped shallot 1 tsp shrimp paste 1 tsp salt Stem the chiles and shake out and discard most of the seeds. Chop coarsely and place in a small bowl. Add warm water to cover and soak for 20 minutes Meanwhile, place the coriander seed in a small skillet and dry-fry over medium heat until darkened a little and fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Shake the pan now and then to prevent burning. Transfer the coriander seed to a small bowl to cool. Roast the cumin seed in the same way. Combine the roasted spices and whole peppercorns and grind to a fine powder in a mortar with a pestle or in a spice grinder. Set aside. Trim the lemongrass stalks. Cut away and discard the grassy tops, leaving a stalk about 3 inches long. Cut away and hard root section to leave a clean, smooth, flat base at the root and below the bulb. Remove and discard tough outer leaves. Slice each stalk crosswise very thinly. Finely chop the slices and place in a large heavy mortar. Add the cilantro root, galanga, and lime peel. Pound until the ingredients are broken down, scraping down the sides often with a spoon. Add the garlic and shallot and continue pounding, grinding and scraping until a moist, fragrant paste forms, about minutes. Drain the chiles and add them to the mortar. Grind them in, being careful to keep the chili paste from splashing. Add the ground spices, shrimp paste, and salt and grind well. When the paste is fairly smooth, transfer it to a small glass jar, cover tightly and refrigerate for up to one month. Makes about 1 cup.